The painted surface How To Repair Water Damage and Stains On Drywall. For 40 years, Tarion has provided new home warranty protection to more than two million Ontario homes. We serve new home buyers and new home owners by ensuring that. Q: What do you think about maybe using the Brooklyn tile wallpaper for our main bathroom ceiling? At £219 a pop it feels a bit risky. Is it true that using some.
Beadboard Ceiling Install. Obtain Material(s) and Supplies. For our cabin beadboard ceilings, we used 3/4. We ordered the boards from our local lumber yard. When ordering beaded ceiling boards, order boards long enough to avoid lengthwise seams. If seams are unavoidable, try and order tongue and groove boards that are “end- matched”. End- matched boards carry the tongue and groove to the sides of the boards, making end seams more stable.
8 Things Your Roof Is Trying to Tell You Missing shingles, granules filling the gutters, water stains on the ceiling after rainstorms—they all point to roofing. Drywall Cracks Cause & prevention of cracks or ridging in plasterboard or gypsum board ceilings & walls. DRYWALL CRACKS - CONTENTS: what are the causes of drywall or. What was the reason for skimming it? If there were already cracks in the ceiling did you tape them?
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Filling cracks and stopping any leaks that result is essential for doors, windows, brickwork, ceiling and many other items. Find out how to in our DIY guide.
If possible, order boards that are just slightly longer than the needed ceiling span. Tongue and groove beaded boards are typically available in lengths up to 1. Yellow pine beaded ceiling tongue and groove 3/4. Order a bit extra to cover for damaged boards and waste. You can always return unused boards.
To fasten the boards, I purchased and used a pneumatic Bostitch 1. I highly recommend using a pneumatic nailer if installing individual tongue and groove boards. You will need to blind nail these boards through the tongue. If you hand nail the boards, you will need to use a nail set to countersink each nail. That’s a lot of work without a nailer. Bostitch pneumatic finishing nailer and 1.
Proper nail head depth is flush or just below the tongue surface. Pre- finish, Pre- prime or Back- prime Boards Prior to Install if Possible. To improve the performance, appearance and life of your beadboard ceiling project, consider finishing or at least priming the boards prior to installing them. Sealed boards last longer and are dimensionally more stable. It is also a lot easy to apply primer or finish to the boards prior to installing them. And, once installed, boards that already have a coat or two of finish applied accept a final finish coat very easily.
Pre- primed beadboard ready to install. In addition, priming or painting the tongues of the boards will improve the appearance of your ceiling in areas where the boards separate with season moisture changes. Plan Board Install. To install tongue and groove boards properly, you will need to determine the direction and location of the ceiling joists. The beadboard ceiling boards should be installed perpendicular (oriented at a 9. This orientation allows each board to be nailed to the joists.
Using a stud finder or other method, locate and mark your ceiling joists prior to beginning board installation. Use a caulk line or straight edge to mark the location of all joists on the entire length of the ceiling. Locate and mark ceiling joists prior to installing boards. Board should be installed perpendicular to the ceiling joists. Measure and Cut Boards.
Once the ceiling joists are marked, measure and cut the tongue and groove beaded boards for install. If possible, the boards should be long enough to span the entire width of the ceiling without seams. If you will need to seam boards, order end- matched boards that have tongue and groove sides designed for seaming. If you need to seam boards without end- matched ends, try and plan the seam to join over a joist so you can face nail the ends of each board secure.
When making measurements for board lengths, remember to leave a slight gap on both sides of the board ends for possible board expansion. You can leave smaller gaps (1/4. Leave larger gaps (3/8. Remember that you will be installing the boards perpendicular to the ceiling joists, so pick the starting wall accordingly.
Install the first board tongue out with the groove side of the board facing the wall. Leave a slight expansion gap (1/4. First, center the board left to right, with equal expansion gaps on either side of the board. Square the board with the side walls.
Then, nail the board in place. For the first board, face nail the starting edge of the board (groove side) next to the wall. These nails pass directly through the face of the board perpendicular to the board surface. Then blind nail the tongue, align your nailer (or nail if hand nailing) at a 4.
The starting board is installed groove toward the wall. Face nail the back edge of the board then blind nail the front trough the tongue of the board. Seat the nail head so that it is flush or slightly countersunk with the tongue surface so that it does not interfere with the tongue and groove joint. Once the first board is nailed in place, continue to add boards and nail them to the prior installed boards only through the tongue. This way, no nail head will be visible, except for the face nailing of the first and last boards.
Prior to nailing boards in place, center them left to right, so the expansion gap at the ends of the board is similar. Once aligned, side the new board’s groove into the existing boards tongue and tap them together to tighten. Add boards one at a time, connecting the tongue and groove edges. Tapping the boards not only tightens the tongue and groove joint, but tightens the nails of the boards already installed. Blind nailed joints, with their 4. To tighten the boards prior to nailing, use a scrap piece of the tongue and groove board as a tapping block and firmly pound on it with a hammer. The tapping block should be connected to the existing boards using the tongue and groove joint.
Using a tapping board for tightening protects the tongue ends of the boards you are installing. Tighten the tongue and groove joints and the installed nails by pounding boards together using a scrap piece of tongue and groove board. Tap the newly added board tight, and then nail it in place. Nail the board at both edges and the intersection of every joist (which should be marked on the ceiling with chalk or a line). Ceiling joist spacing tends to vary between 1. Angle nail at approximately 4.
Prior to installing any boards, you should mark the location of the ceiling joists on the existing ceiling using a chalk line or similar. Continue adding boards until you cover the entire ceiling surface. The Last Few Boards.
When you get close to the end of the ceiling, you will no longer be able to use a hammer and tap- board to tighten the boards. Instead, use the tapping board with a few pieces of scrap boards to create a space to pry the boards tight using a pry bar or similar against the wall and the tapping board. When you reach the end of the ceiling, you will likely need to rip (cut lengthwise) a board to fill in and finish the ceiling span. To do so, measure the needed width to fill in the final gap minus any expansion gap you plan to leave. Cut a piece of beaded board lengthwise after measuring and marking the proper width. Don’t forget to consider the tongue and groove joint when making and marking this width. To make it easier to rip the final board, join the piece to be cut into another tongue and groove board.
I then screw the stabilizing tongue and groove board to my saw horse using deck screws – just my way of doing it. Ripping the last piece. Attach it to another tongue and groove board secured to sawhorses to make it easier to rip.
After ripping the last board, install it and face- nail the wall side similar to the first board. If the last piece is narrow, join the second to the last board to the final ripped board and install together. Use the wall to tighten the boards then face nail the final piece. If the final board is narrow, join it to the second to last board and install the two together. Paint the Installed Beadboard Ceiling.
After the boards are installed, paint or finish as desired. We painted the beadboard ceilings with Benjamin Moore Advance waterborne alkyd indoor paint tinted “White Chocolate”. With the boards already primed, the finish coats went on very easily.
We two coats of finish applied using a 6 1/2. There are many different trim options.
We chose a simple 3/4. Use finish nails or the same finish nailer set up to install the trim. Nails should be slightly countersunk and covered with a filler or caulk. Counter sink trim nails then cover with filler and paint. Once the trim is installed, apply your chosen finish or paint.